Le Chemin d'Arles - an overview
The canal at Toulouse
The Chemin d'Arles is one of the four pilgrimage feeder routes through France leading to the Camimo Frances in Spain. Most of the pilgrims from father afield in Europe would have travelled along one of these roads.
It is a more demanding walk than le Chemin du Puy and is followed by fewer travellers. There are some climbs of up to 900 metres even before the Pyrenees. But for me, the most arduous stretches were the environs of Montpelier and Toulouse where some walkers yield to the temptation, but not I, to take a tram or a bus.
In the early parts I walked for several days without encountering a fellow walker. I was often alone at the gites. Even after Toulouse, until Spain, there were fewer than a dozen walkers on a daily stretch. But many Spaniards begin at Jaca for Santiago, so the Spanish section of the walk is well travelled.
There are many attractions on this walk. In the picture above is the path along the canal which leads into Toulouse. After some difficult and isolated stretches after Montpellier, this flat and easy stroll is welcome relief. It is the only pleasant walk in the big cities. The departure from Toulouse and the ways in and out of Montpellier through built-up areas are long and painful.
It is a more demanding walk than le Chemin du Puy and is followed by fewer travellers. There are some climbs of up to 900 metres even before the Pyrenees. But for me, the most arduous stretches were the environs of Montpelier and Toulouse where some walkers yield to the temptation, but not I, to take a tram or a bus.
In the early parts I walked for several days without encountering a fellow walker. I was often alone at the gites. Even after Toulouse, until Spain, there were fewer than a dozen walkers on a daily stretch. But many Spaniards begin at Jaca for Santiago, so the Spanish section of the walk is well travelled.
There are many attractions on this walk. In the picture above is the path along the canal which leads into Toulouse. After some difficult and isolated stretches after Montpellier, this flat and easy stroll is welcome relief. It is the only pleasant walk in the big cities. The departure from Toulouse and the ways in and out of Montpellier through built-up areas are long and painful.
Castres
There is one gem comparable to Conques on le Chemin du Puy and that is the medieval abbey village of Saint-Guilhem le Desert. With its steep narrow streets it was a little like an Ile de Mont Saint-Michel in the desert. One of my most pleasurable moments was drinking a beer in the square in front of the abbey next to the largest plane tree I have ever seen. Consumed with thirst after a considerable climb I downed a litre in quick time, but was wise to stop there, because to leave Saint-Guilhem the next day I had to climb much higher up a canyon and across the hills into lonely forest plantations.
Apart from Montpellier and Toulouse, which are too big to explore in the remaining light on the day of arrival and merit a visit on their own, you pass through many attractive towns. One of these is Castres with its row of houses along the river which reminded me a little of Honfleur or Bruges.
Apart from Montpellier and Toulouse, which are too big to explore in the remaining light on the day of arrival and merit a visit on their own, you pass through many attractive towns. One of these is Castres with its row of houses along the river which reminded me a little of Honfleur or Bruges.
The octagonal church at Eunate
As everywhere in France, there are many beautiful churches. Usually, they are open and free to visit, a consequence, I suppose, of their state subsidy. It is ironic that the churches in secular France are supported by the state, but those of the established Church of England are not.
Secular French have an interesting ambivalence towards the Church. On one hand they vehemently maintain its separation from the State, but on the other they revere the buildings and even the institution as part of their patrimoine.
On the walk you pass through a number of cathedral towns. Well worth a visit is the beautiful cathedral at Auch, with its exquisite misericordia.
As I approached the Spanish border and continued beyond, I noticed the Spanish influence in the interior, as simplicity and austerity gave way to gaudiness. One exception was the lonely octagonal church at Eunate, with its marble windows and simple statuory. Nothing beside remains except an ancient barn-like stone building which now serves as a humble gite. Only a few kilometres from Puente la Reina, it is a calm refuge from the madding crowds of the camino frances.
I posted entries in my blog each day as I walked. I have rearranged these entries in chronological order and added photos.
Click here to follow the first stage of this journey.
Click here to read the entire document in PDF format.
Secular French have an interesting ambivalence towards the Church. On one hand they vehemently maintain its separation from the State, but on the other they revere the buildings and even the institution as part of their patrimoine.
On the walk you pass through a number of cathedral towns. Well worth a visit is the beautiful cathedral at Auch, with its exquisite misericordia.
As I approached the Spanish border and continued beyond, I noticed the Spanish influence in the interior, as simplicity and austerity gave way to gaudiness. One exception was the lonely octagonal church at Eunate, with its marble windows and simple statuory. Nothing beside remains except an ancient barn-like stone building which now serves as a humble gite. Only a few kilometres from Puente la Reina, it is a calm refuge from the madding crowds of the camino frances.
I posted entries in my blog each day as I walked. I have rearranged these entries in chronological order and added photos.
Click here to follow the first stage of this journey.
Click here to read the entire document in PDF format.